The 2/95th Rifle regiment was formed in 1805 and consisted of well trained men, using the superior Baker Rifles giving them a well deserved reputation for accuracy and a sharp shooting ability unsurpassed; men of the 2/95^th enjoyed a level of morale and proficiency unique to them, proving their ability time and time again at home and on campaign. It is this unique spirit and morale that the 2/95th continues to recreate though our dedication to history, authenticity and most of all fun on our weekends away. It is just as important for the women, as it is for the men, therefore, to be actively enthusiastic and we hope that this information will give you a little back ground and a lot of starting points for what promises to be a rewarding and above all fun hobby.

Picture to follow

The Chemise

This is the basic under garment, which is to say nothing is worn underneath it! Chemise is a French name that was adopted by the English ladies as the term ‘shift’ became out dated. Its basic shape is an oblong front and back, with sleeves attached including a gusset under each armpit. The material required to make these is either cotton or linen, always white and always without lace, only basic trimmings. The neck line is left open and can sometimes be seen slightly above the neckline of other garments and below the sleeves of half length outer garments.  This garment would have been worn by all but the very affluent women of high society.

This is an essential garment for re enactors and it is advisable to have two, a heavier one for colder months and a lighter one for summer.

Petticoats

The petticoat was the name given to what we now know as skirts.  They are a garment that would have been worn by all women at the beginning of the wars either singularly or with a second one over the top bunched up to give the effect of the popular polonaise gown worn by the upper classes. (Clothes towards the end of the war had changed and this is discussed at the end of the information).

Petticoats are made up from one large piece of fabric, either wool, linen or cotton, and are shaped by gathering into a waistband at the top. 

Ideally they should fasten at the sides as this allows access to the pockets (these are explained later). However in practice most of them fasten at the back with ties, buttons or hook and eyes (again examples of these are shown later). They fall to about 9” of the ground and consist of approximately 2 1/2 metres of fabric.The fabric choice is entirely up to you, the colours would be black, red, russet, dusky pink, browns, greens, blues and yellows. Darker colours are favoured as they didn’t show the dirt as much. The fabric itself should be either plain, stripped or checked, basic patterns weaved into the fabric, not printed on.

This is an essential part of kit; please feel free to ask the women to look at their kit and get advice on construction.

Corsets and stays

The Napoleonic Wars brought to a halt the relaxed moral attitudes of the time; and there is now much controversy over the corset. It is generally thought that only the very wealthy and emancipated women discarded their corsets and went without this vital form of support; and this was only for a very short time. Its rejection has been likened to the burning of bras in the 70’s i.e. only done by a few extreme feminists of the time!

The corset is quite an intricate piece of kit made from cotton or linen. Originally stiffened with whale bone to give support, the corset is worn over the chemise and is laced up at either the front or back; they can be tabbed and should reach the waist.

If working outside in hot weather women during this time would often have removed their outer garments and worked in their chemise and corsets, which was akin to men working in their shirt sleeves and waistcoats; corsets were not recognised as an undergarment until much later. Alternatively, if the corset doesn’t take your fancy, a stay or waistcoat, should be worn.  These are less rigid and can be made from wool, cotton or linen, they give support but with more flexibility. It is best to ask the ladies who wear these garments how it feels to wear them and then decide which you may like best.

These are an essential part of kit, so when you do decide to get either a corset or a waistcoat, please ask the women who wear them their advice on getting hold of one, or alternatively making your own.

Gowns and Jackets

The next garment to be worn, over the chemise, corset and petticoats, was either a gown or a jacket.

A gown has an open fronted long skirt and a fitted bodice. These were particularly popular and typically English. The waistline on these is slightly higher than we wear them today, i.e. above the natural waistline, but no were near as high as the empire line gowns that were starting to be worn by the upper classes.

 Again the fabric used for these gowns should be wool, linen or cotton, and plain or striped, usually in contrasting colours to the petticoats. The bodice of the gown is fitted, has a low neckline and fastens up the front with pins, ties or hook and eyes; occasionally buttons were used but as a rule button holing took up too much time so easier fastening were used. The skirt of the gown opens up in front to show the petticoat underneath, and like the second petticoat would sometimes be hitched up at the back to look like the polonaise; this would also have served to keep it clean. The sleeves of the gown are usually ¾ to full length and fairly tight fitting.

Jackets, worn at this time, came in a variety of colours, shapes, sizes, and lengths i.e. from the waist to the hips. The jacket is fitted to go over your other garments and should be fastened with hook and eyes or ties; again only occasionally were buttons used. The neck line on all jackets was low and without seams at the waist. Extra material can be added to the peplum (around the bottom) to allow it is sit comfortably over the other garments (not to mention our hips!!)

A larger, more loosely fitted thigh to knee length jacket, commonly referred to as a bedgown, was also worn and typically favoured by English women. This type of garment should not have any fastenings, instead it was held closed by an apron. Pleats could be added to the bottom for fullness.

Bedgowns and jackets are outer garments and therefore worn primarily for warmth, As such we recommend making them from wool, linen or thick cotton. Full length gowns can be made from the same. The fabric should be either plain or striped and most colours were used.

This is an essential piece of kit, but it may take you the first season to acquire it.

Caps, Kerchiefs and Aprons

The mob cap, as it was known, is always white cotton or linen.  No women above a certain age would have been seen in public without her cap as it was considered indecent.  Out doors the cap can be covered with a bonnet or straw hat. A popular style, seen here, frames the face, and can be with or without a frill; coloured ribbons were sometimes used to decorate them.

The kerchief is simply a large square of white, yellow, cream or pale coloured cotton, linen or muslin; approximately 40” square.  It is folded diagonally and placed around the shoulders.  It can be either tucked into the neckline, waistband or crossed over and tied around the back. It protects the outer garments and ‘fills in’ some of the neckline.

The apron is made of heavy cotton or linen, some sources even recommend sacking for the working one. They are white as a rule but pale blue and stripped have also been recorded. If you intend to get stuck in around camp we would advise that you get two aprons, a working one to protect your cloths and a second for keeping clean. This would have been the case at home for the soldier’s wives, who may have worn their second apron with their best clothes or simply placed it over her working one if company arrived. 

The aprons construction should be such that it covers the width of your skirt but not so far back as to cover the pocket slits (discussed later). A fabric width of 45” is sufficient, gathered into a tie string at the top. 

These simple but essential items of clothing will become a permanent part of your Kit, they are simple to make, but are also ready available from traders at events.

Footwear

Undoubtedly the biggest give away for re enactors is the authenticity of footwear. Shoes were not sophisticated. Simple black, leather shoes and boots with little or no heal, or black, brown or dark coloured clogs are appropriate. Buckles or shoe strings are fine.

This is possibly the most expensive item you will acquire, and they are unfortunately essential, However, before you rush out and buy some check what the other women have, it may be that someone your size, or there about, can lend you some to start with. 

Extras

By the beginning of the 19th century a rich diversity of colourful occupations for women had immerged. The distinction between the elaborate garments of the upper classes and the practicality of the clothing of lower classes gave rise to new regional awareness in fashion. This can be seen to be reflected in the women’s clothing around camp.

Towards the end of the Napoleonic Wars poorer people were benefiting from the much marketed cheaper cotton and in an attempt to copy the fashions of the time the Empire waistline began to emerge. According to the famous travel writer George Walker, by 1814 the Empire line gown could be seen to be worn even by Lowkers (an agricultural term for women who weeded the crops) in Yorkshire, so if it could be seen there it could be seen anywhere!

What to do

Although women may have had different professions outside of the army, for example milkmaids, agricultural workers

fisherwomen, leech finders and laundry maids, once they became the armies property they would be required to carry out the duties of cooking, laundry and sewing for the officers, and the officers wives when requested, for which they would be paid.

As women of the 2/95th we try and recreate these tasks around the camp. Other basic chores include keeping the fire going and make sure there is a constant supply of tea, fetching water, collecting firewood, looking after the hoards of children, keeping the camp looking authentic, particularly around your own tent, and talking to the public, which can take practice! On top of all this some of the women will portray skills of the time including knitting, sewing, embroidery and quilting.

Catering

The 2/95th women, or the coven as they are becoming known, organise the food for the weekend. The kitchen area should be authentic during the hours the event is open to the public, which means no plastic drinks bottles, no unauthentic food or wrappers, chocolates, cakes sliced bread etc. this also includes, as far as it can, the food we eat.

Meals will normally include a breakfast of bacon, sausages, eggs, bread and butter, a lunchtime feast of ham, bread, cheese salad stuff, fruit and various other goodies, and a main meal in the evening, at which we endeavour to be as adventurous as possible on an open fire, this may be curries, pasta, pork and cider, beef in beer etc. If you have any food allergies or particular dislikes please find out before the weekend what the menu is and then you will know whether to take your own food for you to eat at a particular mealtime.

Kitchen Kit

Last but not least you will require a set of kitchen kit this includes

A plate, wooden or metal, not enamelled, pot or modern looking,

A drinking vessel, either pot, wood or metal, again not a modern one,

A knife, a fork, which should have two or three prongs and a spoon all of which should have either boned or wooden handles,

It is entirely the responsibility of the owner to look after their kitchen kit; including washing it up, so discreet labelling can be useful.